From Nasik to Hampi

As planned, Monday involved a day trip to Trimbak before returning to Nasik for my journey to Hyderabad. Trimbak translates as 'Three-Eyes', another name for the Hindu god Shiva, and is a very famous place for Hindus. However, few foreign tourists seem to go there, and I was once again the centre of intrigue for the Indian pilgrims. The main part of my visit was to do the Brahmagiri hike; an uphill walk to the remains of Anjeri Fort, and eventually to the source of the Godavari river. It was a pleasant hike with some good views.

At the remains of the fort I was approached by numerous locals wanting to chat and take pictures (often with my camera and without even asking to see the results!). As further great scenery spanned into the distance, the pleasant atmosphere was further boosted by a man who gently lectured to a group of obdient listeners. My guess was that he was telling tales from the holy books. Later the pilgrims would queue up by the man to be blessed by water from a well. With an evening train to catch I decided not to progress further to the source of the river (my guidebook described it as 'rather unimpressive' anyway), and I trekked back down the hill.

That evening I took the night train south to Hyderabad, and after a low-key Tuesday I explored the place on Wednesday. Unfortunetly I found the place quite uninspiring; just another busy Indian city, albeit with a slight Islamic influence.

On Wednesday night I took the night train to Hampi. I have been on the road now for well over ten months, and I think it's understandable to say at this point that I am now rarely taken back by something. However, when I arrived at Hampi's river on early Thursday, I was taken back. From what I had been told, Hampi was unique because of the boulders that are scattered around the landscape, sometimes seemingly defying gravity as they balance upon one another. I had seen something like this before back at Devil's Marbles in Australia. However, Hampi was different. The beautiful boulder-scattered river winded through a landscape where hills and mountains were formed by boulders. It was quite bizarre. Furthermore, memories of Varanasi came back to me as locals washed their clothes joyfully in the waters. As I sat on the steps awaiting a boat to take me to the other side of the river, an elephant appeared some distant away on the steps, plodding down to the river's edge accompanied by his rider. He subsequently got a morning bath.

Hampi is a very laid back place, but to my surprise, there is also a strong backpackers' scene, with many lazing here for extended periods of time. I therefore too found myself intermitently sandwiching days of exploration with days of laziness. I spent time playing chess, and also giving advice to a bunch of locals who were setting up a restaurant. All their proceeds were going to charity, but as of yet they had sold merely a few cups of tea in the week or two they had been open. I hope they take on board my advice if they are going to make it!

It was Friday before I trekked to the temples and pathways to the North-East of the main bazaar. By chance though, it was the start of a Hindu festival, and yet more Indians in the busy crowds found great glee in saying hello and asking where I was from. Late afternoon I climbed to the summit of Matanga Hill, but after scurrying past a few steep drops, I was happy to found out that there was an alternative way down on the otherside.

On Saturday I relaxed a lot but also visited Virupaksha Temple. It was fairly dull, but worth the 2 rupee entrance fee to see Lakshmi up close, the temple elephant I had seen two days earlier. The local kids took great glee in placing a rupee in his trunk. In return, Lakshmi would bless them (plonk his trunk on their head).

On Sunday I embarked on a lengthy walk to the temple complex to the south, got mobbed by a huge group of school kids who yelled ecstatically once they got a picture with me, and finally headed back along a country path. However, the path didn't quite go where I expected. I eventually had to turn around, ask for directions, and wade through a shallow stream to get myself back to Hampi before it was too late. Strangely, it's the satisfaction of survival I get from these type of walks which make them the best!

Tonight I take the night bus to Bangalore, a city I expect little from, but a link to the following destination; Mysore.